soulchaser

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A city of extremes that will leave you breathless for reasons both good and bad.

QUICK TIPS

The numerous white combi vans you see flying along the sea front are fast and cheap ways to get from one end of the city to the other. Flag one, shout where you're going, if they don't wheelspin away then you're good to go. Taxis are a joke, buses everywhere but slow, the Metro is clean and fast.

If you're a guy, the girls are aggressive and they want you to be more so - don't be shy. For girls, well, just watch the testosterone filled hulks prowling the beaches to get a taste of what you're in for!

Murder rate No2 in the World. Trouble comes with a capital "T" here, so avoid it and you'll be fine.

WHERE TO STAY

The Rio Whitehouse
Estrada Do Vidigal, Leblon
No website
email:
phone: (+55) (21) 91342076

cost: $10 (but reduced to around $7 for monthly stays, no need to book or pay in advance!)

Hammocks, a scorched patio perfect for BBQs that overlooks the beach you'll call your own when the 5 minute walk to Leblon is just too much, great design, a spacious dorm with NO bunks and fantastic private rooms, plenty of hot (or cold!) showers, internet, well stocked kitchen, cheap groceries and Acai from Vidigal down the road, ridiculously strong caipirinhas downstairs and perfectly placed to keep you in the thick of Rio's day and night life whilst giving you a quiet retreat when you need it.

Did I say quiet?! The owner of this hostel, Deniz, is why this place is fantastic, he's created an environment that makes you feel like your a guest in his home and he is not adverse to house parties!

If you don't like the sound of the Whitehouse then good, stay away! The people who are attracted here are a certain breed of traveller and I hope it stays that way.

Directions: Walk to the end of Leblon beach and continue up the hill, taking great care not to be malled by passing traffic. Follow the path along the cliff, under overhanging trees, until you see a bus shelter on the right (if you get as far as the Sheraton gates turn around, you missed it). Next to this shelter is a steep stair case, at the top turn right, the Whitehouse is, surprisingly enough, the big white house in front of you! (Take a combi and ask for Shakarah, or a taxi and give the address, but it can be difficult to convince a taxi driver to take you here)

WHAT TO DO

Hit the Beach!

Copacabana made Rio famous but Ipanema and Leblon have definately surpassed it. There are 12 lifeguard 'posts' dividing the beaches and different groups hang out at different posts - Post 9 is the place for the young and hip, and a good place to score weed.

The best surf is by the fort dividing Copacabana and Ipanema, and at the end of Leblon, but if you're a beginner, it's probably best to find another resort as these waves are not kind to rookies as I can vouch (Ipanema means "bad waters"!).

Pao d'Acucar - Sugar Loaf Mountain

Very popular tourist attration with gringos and locals alike; at every sunset there is a tongue twister competition between the abundant couples, so don't forget to bring a date!

Alternatively: find the cable car station and completely ignore it. Walk to the beach (if you need directions for that then don't expect to keep your wallet, watch or life for very long in Rio) and turn left. You'll pass a building on your right and see some gates, go through them and walk along the path. After a short distance you'll see a very obvious track leading up into the woods on the left, this will take you to the second cable car station for a cheaper fare and a nice walk. Obviously you can come down this way as well.

Really alternatively: Carry on along the original path until you meet a dead end. Do as you did with the cable car staion and conpletely ignore the concrete pillar blocking your path as yoy climb around it. Now for the fun part, you are going to climb Pao d'Acucar! OK, most of it is a beautiful walk and as long as you are generally heading upwards you're going in the right direction. After a few zig zags and short scrambles you'll be presented with the only part which requires any form of climbing. If you have experience and aren't wearing flip flops then you should be able to do this, it's easy, honest, just don't look down. If you're unsure then wait and someone who knows the path will come along and help you up, promise. If you really don't want to do it then don't worry, nobody saw you chicken out, and it's worth it for the walk anyway.

Christ the Redeemer

OK, you want the truth? Well here it is, O Cristo del Redentor is better seen from below, way below. Honestly, he's glorious from the city, but up close you see him for what he is, and it ain't pretty. You can take a train, a taxi or even walk up to it but when you're there you are gonna be disappointed and force yourself to smile and enjoy it as you have your money ripped outta your ass. Then your gonna wait in line with a million other people wearing forced smiles for your turn to force out a really really forced smile for a photo of you imitating redemption that costs more then your new digital camera.

Leave this one to the tourists, be a traveller and just say no. Or better yet, walk to the top (it's a nice walk) and then turn around and walk straight back down again, don't even batter an eyelid at ol' cristo.

For a good view of Rio choose Pao d'Acucar. To walk up to Christ, take the tram in Santa Teresa to the end of the line, follow the road and after a while you'll see a turn to the right, look out for train tracks. Follow these to the top. On the way down look out for a path into the woods on the left, this will take you into the Botanical Gardens.

Rock Climbing

Rio is fantastic for sport climbers and you only have to look away from the water to know why! Hang around the climbs and boulders on Sugar Loaf and you'll meet plenty of people willing to take you on climbing trips.

Favela Tours

DON'T DO THEM. Wanna know why? Read here.

If you want to know about favela life, stay at the Whitehouse (listed above) and eat in Vidigal, or find some volunteer work to do. Here is the number of an NGO that teaches English in Rocina, Latin America's largest favela: 021 38132935

Eating

Comida a Kilos (pay by the weight) can be fantastic value but for good cheap food eat with the locals; you will soon realise that every second door front is a bar selling typical rice beans and chicken, and beer. These are great, use them.

Nightlife

No clubs are outstanding in Rio but many are terrible. Check out Bunker and avoid Help. The best nightlife can be found on the streets of Lapa, but watch your wallet. Emporio is the place Cariocas go to pull Gringos. Nothing happens until 1am in Rio.

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